Replacement Single Electric Oven

[kas]

Ok guys advice needed.

I am swapping over a single electric built-in oven with a similar item, they both require hard-wiring, and are of similar power rating (2145w - 2335w).
The current oven is hard wired with the following grey cable

BASEC 300 / 500 V H 6242Y 6.0

Am I ok to use this cable (which is still in good condition) to hard-wire the new oven.
If so it should be a simple job, what is the max power this cable would be ok for.
Ps -There is a seperate oven isolation switch above the worktop to the left, and its own 32A fuse in the consumer unit.

 

[telectrix]

absolutely no problem. 6.0mm cable is well enough for that load. it's just a like for like replacement. your full load current is 10A . it could even be wired on a standard 13A plug

 

[accordfire]

Sounds OK.

At 2335W, the cable will be handling around 10.15A - 6mm CSA T&E can take that easily, and the breaker is rated fine for the cable too.

 

[oldtimer]

The new unit will probably have a 13 amp plug top on it remember if you cut it off bang goes the warranty I for one fit a single socket behind the oven spured off the cooker circuit supplying the hob. Then it is easy peasy to replace the oven or take it out for repair

 

[kas]

Ok, sorry probably didn't make myself clear - the old 'dead' oven is rated at 2145-2335w (thats what it says on the oven sticker).

I am assuming the new model will be similar although I do not have the exact power rating for this until it arrives, the only info I have is that it's energy consumption is 0.814 kwh. Does this help, If not what is the max power that cable and set-up mentioned above will take so I can check when it arrives.
thanks again

 

[kas]

Oldtimer, ok thanks but I specifically selected the new oven as it needs 'hard-wiring' so should just be a swap like for like, just need to stay within the restraints of the current cabling.

 

[oldtimer]

kas you will find that theses 2kw ovens have a 13 amp plug on them the reason why I fit a 13 amp single socket spurred off the cooker outlet is that the customer wants to throw the cooker switch to switch off both hob and oven but I have seen the oven wired straight into the cooker outlet or into the hob connections either way this has now removed the 13 amp fuse that was in the plug top protecting the oven instead there is a 32 or 40 amp CB protecting it also if done this way the oven is a bitch to replace or repair as the lead is not long enough to pull the whole unit out. hence the 13 amp socket where a "non skilled" individual can remove and replace the oven

 

[accordfire]

KwH is an energy rating - that tells you how much energy the unit uses, not how much current the appliance draws. There's no direct conversion of one to the other.

 

[kas]

Ok, problem I now have is that the manufacturer and supplier 'Dixons Uk' have both told me that the new oven will require hard-wiring which was the reason I bought this one as adirect replacement.
If it turns up on the 23rd December (!!!!!!!!!!!!) with a plug on I will not be happy to say the least, as i do not have a socket behind to plug it into.

 

[accordfire]

Ok, problem I now have is that the manufacturer and supplier 'Dixons Uk' have both told me that the new oven will require hard-wiring which was the reason I bought this one as adirect replacement.
If it turns up on the 23rd December (!!!!!!!!!!!!) with a plug on I will not be happy to say the least, as i do not have a socket behind to plug it into.

Have you got a brand and model no for it?

 

[oldtimer]

Buy a single socket and surface box from Screwfix for £4-£5 and keep as comes in handy because you do not want to be running down to B&Q on the day to find they do not have any

 

[kas]

Yeah hold on -

LOGIK LBMULX10 Built-In Electric Single Oven Stainless Steel

 

[kas]

LOGIK LBMULX10 Built-in Electric Single Oven - Stainless Steel | Dixons |

 

[Amp David]

I'd love to know where the 'voids the warranty' comes from if you cut the plug off.

Had the same recently, so got on the phone to the manufacturer and asked them. No problem they said.

Did some electric rads, all came with plugs on and was hard wiring them. Again phoned the manufacturer and again no probs

 

[accordfire]

LOGIK LBMULX10 Built-in Electric Single Oven - Stainless Steel | Dixons |

Can't find any specific info for it - however, it looks like a fairly typical single oven. You should be fine with the wiring you have.

 

[kas]

Ok, thanks I couldn't find much either. I did find reference of the same oven on sale in Eire and that stated that it required 'hard-wiring' and Dixons stated yesterday on the phone to my wife the same, so hopefully it will arrive requiring hard-wiring (fingers crossed).

If it does turn up with a flex and plug what are your suggestions, will I need to get an electrician in to convert the current 'wired in' set up and get him to fit a suitable socket.
This will then be getting into the part p rules will it not. Was hoping to just swap over!

 

[oldtimer]

I'd love to know where the 'voids the warranty' comes from if you cut the plug off.

Had the same recently, so got on the phone to the manufacturer and asked them. No problem they said.

Did some electric rads, all came with plugs on and was hard wiring them. Again phoned the manufacturer and again no probs

Dave its just not the warranty that is affected if you cut the plug top off the manufacturer has fitted a 13 amp plug for the reason of electrical protection if you connect it straight into a 20 or a 32 or a 40 amp breaker then you are the one that will be held for negligence in other words if you replaced a 6 amp light circuit breaker with a 15 amp then yes it will work if the house burns down then the "No blame No Claim" mob would have a field day with you

 

[accordfire]

Ok, thanks I couldn't find much either. I did find reference of the same oven on sale in Eire and that stated that it required 'hard-wiring' and Dixons stated yesterday on the phone to my wife the same, so hopefully it will arrive requiring hard-wiring (fingers crossed).

If it does turn up with a flex and plug what are your suggestions, will I need to get an electrician in to convert the current 'wired in' set up and get him to fit a suitable socket.
This will then be getting into the part p rules will it not. Was hoping to just swap over!

I haven't come across many built in ovens with a plug top on them to be honest, so fairly sure you'll be ok. Worst case, stick a junction box on the end of the cable you currently have, and run out on a short bit of 2.5mm twin and earth into a single socket outlet.

 

[kas]

thanks to all for your all your replies !

 

[oldtimer]

IET Forums - Electrician to be prosecuted

I rest my case

 

[kas]

IET Forums - Electrician to be prosecuted

I rest my case

Sorry, what is the point you are making!
I do not see a problem with replacing like for like appliance, if I have a problem and any changes to the existing wiring are required then I will get it done professionally.
I am capable of 'swapping' the ovens as long as the wiring requirements are the same, hence the question on this board. The current 'hard-wired' set up was installed professionally about 4 years ago when the 'dead' oven was first fitted. I do not see a problem as long as the new oven has a similar power rating to the one taken out, unless you can advise me otherwise.

 

[Amp David]

Dave its just not the warranty that is affected if you cut the plug top off the manufacturer has fitted a 13 amp plug for the reason of electrical protection if you connect it straight into a 20 or a 32 or a 40 amp breaker then you are the one that will be held for negligence in other words if you replaced a 6 amp light circuit breaker with a 15 amp then yes it will work if the house burns down then the "No blame No Claim" mob would have a field day with you

See what you're saying, but if an electrician or so called competant person was installing the appliance, they wouldn't just wire it to a circuit supplied by a 20 or whatever amp breaker. Theywould wire from a FCU wouldn't they. Can see why its there so that joe public can get home and plug it in and get cooking

 

[oldtimer]

See what you're saying, but if an electrician or so called competant person was installing the appliance, they wouldn't just wire it to a circuit supplied by a 20 or whatever amp breaker. Theywould wire from a FCU wouldn't they. Can see why its there so that joe public can get home and plug it in and get cooking

David I hear what you say but I was called to a house and the customer wanted a replacement hob and oven connected when I said I would have to fit a 13 amp single socket for the oven I got the "why dont you connect it straight in like the last fella did" I said this would not be safe as there would be a 32 amp circuit breaker protecting the oven and the reply was "well its worked ok for all of these years" The link that I put in about the electrician who was prosecuted the first thing they highlighted was the panel fuse linked out with a piece of wire and although this did not cause the problem never the less it was lets say a little gem for the inspector to place on his report and probably highlighting the potential fire risk because of it. Dont get me wrong I am not being akward here but because of the nature of my business (Property maintenance and small electrical jobs) I am finding this more often and I actually inform the customer before I set foot in the property and most times this works when I explain yes you have to pay extra for me to fit a single socket outlet for the oven but when if you need to change it in the future then you do not need me plus its safer because if the oven element goes it will take out the 13 amp fuse and not the main breaker hence you lose the oven but can still work the hob.

 

[kas]

So, what is the general concensus to my problem then?

Am I safely able to replace my current 'hard-wired' single electric built-in oven, with a new one of similar power by just removing cable from old and fitting to new. As previously mentioned this set up professionally installed during kitchen fitting and the current cable to oven is 300/500v H 6242Y 6.0.

YES or NO ?

Surely by connecting new to this I am no worse off safety wise than before!

If the general opinion is that I should get an electrician in then I will, just seems waste of time to discoonect one cable and reconnect. I could understand the problem if I was putting in something more powerful or double oven etc. but I am just swapping like for like?

 

[telectrix]

answer is yes. but if trhe new oven come with a plug attached, then a single 13A socket should be fitted. if you have a standard connection point behind the oven, this can be replaced with a socket direct on the 6mm cable from the cooker switch

 

[kas]

answer is yes. but if trhe new oven come with a plug attached, then a single 13A socket should be fitted. if you have a standard connection point behind the oven, this can be replaced with a socket direct on the 6mm cable from the cooker switch

Thanks Telectrix, thats what I like to hear good sound, sensible advice. If it came with plug obviously I will rethink, but i am 99% sure it will be a straight swap!

 

[telectrix]

i want an invite for xmas lunch. so will the other guys. it's OK though, we'll all bring some beer. LOL.

 

[kas]

i want an invite for xmas lunch. so will the other guys. it's OK though, we'll all bring some beer. LOL.

It's along way to come from Cheshire for my wifes burnt turkey !

 

[telectrix]

It's along way to come from Cheshire for my wifes burnt turkey !

at least you'll know by the burning smell, she ain't serving up salad

 

[oldtimer]

Thanks Telectrix, thats what I like to hear good sound, sensible advice. If it came with plug obviously I will rethink, but i am 99% sure it will be a straight swap!

Well Kas did it have a plug top on it

 

[kas]

No. it was hard wired as stated by Dixons, so used existing cable. It is slightly more powerful oven but based on previous comments 'assumed' 6mm cable would be fine.
Installed it on 23rd no probs, all working well.
Anyway thanks to everyone for their valuable input.
kas