Connection behind bathroom mirror?

[Rpa07]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

I'd just leave the cable hanging (not energised of course) out of the wall. Then when you, sorry your electrician comes to test - inspect - connect wall cabinet/mirror, it'll go straight inside the fitting.

However, if its one of those luminaires that comes with a pre-installed flex, which is difficult to remove, I'd go with one of those aforementioned alternatives.

 

[Midwest]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

Not the ones I've installed. They seem to have been designed by the Devil Incarnate.

 

[B1gSte]

Thanks all. Midwest, I realise not all those asking for advice will intend to use an electrician. I do consider myself competent to a degree but as pointed out earlier there are a lot more things to consider than just the connections. Plus I need the electrician’s certificate for the building inspector. So even if I knew everything about it (which I clearly don’t) I still couldn’t/wouldn’t do it myself. I’ve just been to Screwfix, as it happens and bought the conduit etc. Are these female adaptors ment to be solvent welded onto the conduit?
Thanks again.

 

[B1gSte]

This is the view of the back of the mirror and the box of tricks

 

[DefyG]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

Most of the ones I've seen/fitted, have had a solid back (effectively one big gear tray) with terminals to connect to.
The flat back would normally be screwed 'flat' to the wall so no room for a flex outlet plate behind it.

As per Midwest, the usual method is to leave the cable hanging out of the wall for direct connection to the unit.

 

[Rpa07]

What did I tell ya!

View attachment 47747 View attachment 47748 This is the view of the back of the mirror and the box of tricks

 

[DefyG]

Cant see any fixings, what holds the mirror against the wall or is the seal made of 'blue tak'?

 

[Rpa07]

It may have a bracket that affixes to the wall that you hook the mirror over. OP will tell us.
Recently I’ve fitted client supplied ones that had to be measured perfectly and drilled and plugged perfectly as when you paired the mirror to the screws they sat in holes - rediculous way of fixing but when you get it right and it’s tight to the wall and level, you don’t touch it again!

 

[B1gSte]

There is a bracket which screws to the wall. The inner part of the frame drops over the bracket along the top. Similar to those brackets for kitchen units but bigger. There doesn’t seem to be any sort of locking mechanism but I’ve tried it out and it sits happily under its own weight.

Edit. Rpa07 is exactly right.

 

[DefyG]

And pulls the seal against the wall to maintain integrity of the IP44 rating?

 

[Bellendian]

Last few of these I've done have come with a pre installed flex, and very little space behind the mirror for a connection. I had been using the wago box lite boxes to make the connection behind the mirror, but this often requires chiselling a pocket out of the wall for the wagobox so the mirror sits flat. On future jobs I'm going down the route of using a 25mm back box and flex outlet plate with a bottom entry. Easier to do the chiselling at 1st fix!

 

[Tim Court]

I have an IP44 rated mirror with demister, shaver socket and led perimeter light. Led and demister controlled by proximity sensor not by light switch. Rather than connect to the lighting circuit the power was spurred off the ring via a double pole switch (in the loft) with a drop to the mirror. Cable pokes through the tiled wall and silicone sealed. Then goes into a Schneider IP44 round junction box fixed to the wall. Flex to mirror connected via wago’s inside. The mirror has a 50mm gap behind so jb can be accommodated.
We were concerned that a standard back box with flex outlet, recessed into the wall, would not quite manage IP44 with all the steam about even though it could have been (just about) mounted outside Zone 2 if we had known the exact fixing height before first fix. And fiddly 4 keyhole fixings for mirror. Should sparks have fitted a switched fused spur in the loft rather than a double pole switch for isolation?

 

[Midwest]

If you’ve spurred off the ring final circuit, you’ll need to replace the DP switch, with a Fused Connection Unit, with switch if you like. Use a 5A fuse. What does the manufacturers instructions say?

Without reading back, does your RFC have RCD protection?

Edit; I see your not the OP.

 

[Tim Court]

Thanks Midwest... yes, circuits have rcd protection. I will also double check the rating plate on the mirror as the installation instructions are silent!