Connection behind bathroom mirror?

[B1gSte]

Hi everyone. Could someone please explain how an LED bathroom mirror with shaver socket should be connected to the mains?
My interpretation of the regs is that a fused spur must be outside the zones.
However, can the flex be connected in the void behind the mirror and by what means?
I am not making the connection myself. This is part of an extension build (en suite) and I’m just trying to make sure that everything is in the wall ready before the boards go over the studwork.
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[B1gSte]

What about if I put a conduit in the wall with a piece of string through from above so that the electrician can pull a cable (or the long flex of the mirror) through it later?

 

[Nebu1a]

Fit noggin, 25mm metal back box, conduit and draw wire and leave for your electrician to finish. Check the mirror is suitable for Zone 2.

 

[B1gSte]

Thanks Nebu1a that’ll do for me!
The mirror is one of those Hudson Reed LED things with a swipe sensor switch for the lights, a shave socket and a demister pad. It is shown above a sink in all the marketing ads. I know this doesn’t necessarily mean anything. It says IP44 on the back, which i have read (on here I think IIRC) is suitable for zone 2.

Thanks again.

 

[Nebu1a]

Yep IP44 is suitable for zone 2

 

[Midwest]

I'd just leave the cable hanging (not energised of course) out of the wall. Then when you, sorry your electrician comes to test - inspect - connect wall cabinet/mirror, it'll go straight inside the fitting.

However, if its one of those luminaires that comes with a pre-installed flex, which is difficult to remove, I'd go with one of those aforementioned alternatives.

 

[Rpa07]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

I'd just leave the cable hanging (not energised of course) out of the wall. Then when you, sorry your electrician comes to test - inspect - connect wall cabinet/mirror, it'll go straight inside the fitting.

However, if its one of those luminaires that comes with a pre-installed flex, which is difficult to remove, I'd go with one of those aforementioned alternatives.

 

[Midwest]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

Not the ones I've installed. They seem to have been designed by the Devil Incarnate.

 

[B1gSte]

Thanks all. Midwest, I realise not all those asking for advice will intend to use an electrician. I do consider myself competent to a degree but as pointed out earlier there are a lot more things to consider than just the connections. Plus I need the electrician’s certificate for the building inspector. So even if I knew everything about it (which I clearly don’t) I still couldn’t/wouldn’t do it myself. I’ve just been to Screwfix, as it happens and bought the conduit etc. Are these female adaptors ment to be solvent welded onto the conduit?
Thanks again.

 

[B1gSte]

This is the view of the back of the mirror and the box of tricks

 

[DefyG]

Most modern hangable mirrors now have open backs to them enabling the click flow or greenbrook connector to be your test point but still enable quick connection.

Most of the ones I've seen/fitted, have had a solid back (effectively one big gear tray) with terminals to connect to.
The flat back would normally be screwed 'flat' to the wall so no room for a flex outlet plate behind it.

As per Midwest, the usual method is to leave the cable hanging out of the wall for direct connection to the unit.

 

[Rpa07]

What did I tell ya!

View attachment 47747 View attachment 47748 This is the view of the back of the mirror and the box of tricks

 

[DefyG]

Cant see any fixings, what holds the mirror against the wall or is the seal made of 'blue tak'?

 

[Rpa07]

It may have a bracket that affixes to the wall that you hook the mirror over. OP will tell us.
Recently I’ve fitted client supplied ones that had to be measured perfectly and drilled and plugged perfectly as when you paired the mirror to the screws they sat in holes - rediculous way of fixing but when you get it right and it’s tight to the wall and level, you don’t touch it again!

 

[B1gSte]

There is a bracket which screws to the wall. The inner part of the frame drops over the bracket along the top. Similar to those brackets for kitchen units but bigger. There doesn’t seem to be any sort of locking mechanism but I’ve tried it out and it sits happily under its own weight.

Edit. Rpa07 is exactly right.

 

[DefyG]

And pulls the seal against the wall to maintain integrity of the IP44 rating?