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Following great advice on here about wiring my ceiling light I've now moved onto replacing the plastic light switches. Does anyone know if a 16mm back box will be OK to accommodate this switch?

https://www.screwflix..com/p/lap-1-...VCLftCh1PyAl0EAQYBCABEgKPvvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

On the reviews I can find information about it fitting a 25mm box but that's all I can find. My current box is mounted on a joist so it would be a clart on to remove it and chisel out to required depth for a 25mm box.

If this won't fit does anyone have any recommendations as I'm looking for this type of finish but with the actual switch made of metal and not plastic (by order of the wife!!!) It doesn't have to be flush mount either.

Thanks in advance.
 
Personally I try and avoid flat face accessories. Unless the wall is perfectly smooth and flat they can end up looking awful.

If you want a brushed steel effect you can't go far wrong (IMHO) with the BG Nexus range.
 
OK so Screwfix has them and they are cheaper which is great but the LAP one has an anti-fingerprint lacquer which was a real selling point. Is this just sales bumph as the BG one has no mention of this.
From an earth point of view I just wanted to check something. My current switch is plastic so the face plate is not earthed and the earth wire from the circuit is connected to the metal back box. Am I correct in thinking I will need to disconnect this earth and connect this one from the circuit into the new faceplate and then run a new length of earth from faceplate into the back box?
 
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A metal light switch must be earthed, yes. This should not just be connected but verified that the earth has continuity to the main earth.

The similarity in the look of BG nexus and LAP have me thinking they are produced by the same manufacturer to be honest.
 
A metal light switch must be earthed, yes. This should not just be connected but verified that the earth has continuity to the main earth.

The similarity in the look of BG nexus and LAP have me thinking they are produced by the same manufacturer to be honest.
OK cheers. I am very conscious about safety so just wanted to check about the earth. Should the earth wire from the lighting circuit wire into the back of the faceplate or leave it as it is now (connected to metal back box) and run a new length from faceplate to backbox?
 
OK cheers. I am very conscious about safety so just wanted to check about the earth. Should the earth wire from the lighting circuit wire into the back of the faceplate or leave it as it is now (connected to metal back box) and run a new length from faceplate to backbox?

I tend to connect the CPC (earth) to the faceplate as that's where it's needed most. If the back box has at least one fixed lug that the plate screws to the official guidance says it's not necessary to earth the backbox but it is good practice to run a flylead from the backbox to the faceplate earthing terminal, avoids any potential issues with oxidation causing a bad connection.
 
I tend to connect the CPC (earth) to the faceplate as that's where it's needed most. If the back box has at least one fixed lug that the plate screws to the official guidance says it's not necessary to earth the backbox but it is good practice to run a flylead from the backbox to the faceplate earthing terminal, avoids any potential issues with oxidation causing a bad connection.
Great thanks!! One more quickie. I've noticed when I've recently converted single sockets to doubles that the earth wires tend to be "doubled over" in the terminal. I know this is different to the lighting circuit but wondered whether doubling over is best practice?
 
It depends how many conductors are in the terminal. For one or two I tend to double them over as it give the screw a bit more to bite on. You may struggle if there are more though.
 
Just a thought, if at some point the wife wants the switch to be a dimmer a 16mm backbox will probably be too shallow - easier to make it deeper now rather than again later.
 

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