Looking for suggestions on how to fix these connections

[edd134]

Unfortunately some soap spilled into the connector box of my 24v cabinet lighting and ruined the connections on the female power supply end and the male connection on each of the lights.

I can replace the power supply female hub fairly cheaply- ANSLUTA LED driver with cord, white, 19 W - IKEA - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ansluta-led-driver-with-cord-white-90405845/ . My issue is each of the lights has a ruined plastic male end that inserts into the hub. As you would imagine I would prefer if possible not to go through the hassle/expense of replacing and re-running wire for all all of the lights in my kitchen.

Any suggestions on how to make this repair without replacing all the lights? I am thinking in theory I could strip the wires- and it would work as long as I could force a connection- but I obviously need something safe/stable.

The best idea I can come up with is buy some sacrificial lights that have the same plastic connector VAXMYRA LED spotlight, white, 2 5/8" - IKEA - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/vaxmyra-led-spotlight-white-70421870/ ($5 a piece), cut off their male ends with an a few inches of wire- and then splice the wires to my old lights.

 

[cliffed]

Basically start again,looks like 12/24 v connection,what about wagos in a nice junction box.

 

[Baddegg]

Looks like that part is designed to fit in a specific place within the cabinet?.....contact cabinet manufacturers they’ll probably send you another ?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

The OP's problem seems to be that although the junction box can be changed, the connectors on the ends of the lighting cables are ruined and the wiring is inaccessible.

If the existing box is indeed just a junction without any resistors or fuses, as @cliffed says all l that needs doing is to cut the connectors off the lighting wires and the box off the end of the wall wart, and join them in a suitable J-box with Wagos or wirenuts. Observe polarity - with any luck the ribbed side of the cord from the wall wart is the same pole as the ribbed side of the those from the lights, it's usually the +ve but that's not guaranteed.

But first, just have a look at the back of the strip of PCB in the box to make sure all the ports are connected directly in parallel to the input wires by two copper tracks. At the same time you might be able to follow the polarity through from wall wart to light.

 

[edd134]

The OP's problem seems to be that although the junction box can be changed, the connectors on the ends of the lighting cables are ruined and the wiring is inaccessible.

If the existing box is indeed just a junction without any resistors or fuses, as @cliffed says all l that needs doing is to cut the connectors off the lighting wires and the box off the end of the wall wart, and join them in a suitable J-box with Wagos or wirenuts. Observe polarity - with any luck the ribbed side of the cord from the wall wart is the same pole as the ribbed side of the those from the lights, it's usually the +ve but that's not guaranteed.

But first, just have a look at the back of the strip of PCB in the box to make sure all the ports are connected directly in parallel to the input wires by two copper tracks. At the same time you might be able to follow the polarity through from wall wart to light.

Thanks! This is odd- I don't see any tracks to the input wires. There obviously needs to be something

 

[edd134]

Still curious about how that PCB works, but I was able to get my lights working by stuffing all of the ribbed wires together in a wing nut, and then also all of the non-ribbed wires in their own nut.

Thanks all!