T

twist

Hi, I'm replacing a damaged cable to my shower and can't make a good job of getting both 10mm^2 cables in the old DP switch box without stripping the external PVC way back to promote flexibility.

The thing is these are massive cables and the one at the bottom comes from the top and vice versa, the opening at the back barely permits the two entry without needing to cross over.

Should I replace the switch or let cable leave without full outer insulation?
 
Is this a trick question? It sounds like your a victim of bad planning if the cables cross, can't you rearrange them so they can enter the box in an orderly fashion? Stripping the insulation way back to make them more flexible would not be a good idea. Maybe a photo would give us a better idea of the problem.
 
No trick, it's a wall switch, and now the cable is cut, it will forever be a wall switch and not a ceiling switch. I like it high, outside the shower room, and the shower higher still, safe from the torrents.
 
If it's safe you like it,you need to leave as MUCH insulation on as you can manage.Re-arrange to accomodate this.:teeth_smile:
 
dont tell me your trying to terminate 2x 10mm's in a 1 gang box ??
lol no wonder your struggling
yes , use a double switch plate in your link with a 47mm 2 gang box.
 
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Ok, was going to do that.

I DIY I die, so no, but I repair and replace.

Seems most wall mounted DP switches are for cookers, anyone know if they will give the requisite 3mm contact separation and which standard I need to look for to ensure this? Or just buy Crabtree and trust in quality?
 
As long as it comes with a BS number or flag on it then it will be fine for what you are using it for.
 
its about time these brain dead tw&ts left us alone in here....
stop askin bloody questions on how to do stuff...
go get an electrician in....
 
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Ok, was going to do that.

I DIY I die, so no, but I repair and replace.

Seems most wall mounted DP switches are for cookers, anyone know if they will give the requisite 3mm contact separation and which standard I need to look for to ensure this? Or just buy Crabtree and trust in quality?

Hmmmm, ....so what sort of contact gap would you expect from a DP 45A cooker switch then??
 
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its about time these brain dead tw&ts left us alone in here....
stop askin bloody questions on how to do stuff...
go get an electrician in....

Don't you hold back there Glenn ............. just tell it like it is ... :wink_smile:
 
you've had your answer. use a double 47mm back box and an appropriate switch.

AA45SWN.JPG
 
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you've had your answer. use a double 47mm back box and an appropriate switch.

AA45SWN.JPG


quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by twist

quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Engineer54
Hmmmm, ....so what sort of contact gap would you expect from a DP 45A cooker switch then??

I don't know, I'm replacing my shower.



Yep, that looks decidedly like a cooker/heater switch, without the engraving of ''COOKER'' or HEATER'' on the faceplate!! Jesus, some mothers do ave em alright!!
 
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well, if that was outside my bathroom, i'd not immediately think it was for the cooker.
 
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well it won't boil if you put it in the bath. don't eat rice anyway. curry & chips for me.
 
not if you drink that chemical muck called lager or smoothflow and miss the pan when you throw it all up.
 
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well it won't boil if you put it in the bath. don't eat rice anyway. curry & chips for me.

We're not feeding the 5000 here!

Got a mate who came downstairs one morning to find teeth marks in his plastic fruit.
He also came home one night with a bag of bacon rinds he found in a bin and proceeded to cook them up and eat them.
I love beer drinking! :smilielol5:
 
bigger cable= bigger enclosure.... ssimplesss.
 

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How much insulation is needed leaving back box?
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