What is the best was to splice electrical wire to power two components? (Arcade power supply and LCD

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool, thanks guys!
Would the fuses terminal blocks here be suitable for putting inline fuses in for the PSU and monitor?

Plug Top 20mm and 25mm (1 Inch) Fused Terminal Block | maplin - https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/plug-top-20mm-and-25mm-1-inch-fused-terminal-block-tz17t

However, I was thinking, this monitor is just a 19" Dell LCD pc monitor. Usually the kettle lead plus straight in the back so I guess it has an internal fuse no? If so do I still need to fuse the live line in for the monitor? Or just the PSU?

 

[Spoon]

What is the recommended fuse size for the monitor?
What is the recommended fuse size for the PSU?
You have a 6A fuse in the IEC connector that you could change to a different size, if needed.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

The monitor has an IEC socket for it's power in and it came with a kettle lead that was fused at 13a. Regarding current etc. This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.
Should I fuse the IEC socket at 10a?

 

[SparkyChick]

Some great advice,here,but the solder is not necessary,if the crimping is suitable. Indeed,depending on the conductor type,and machine operating conditions,it could be detrimental.

I've got the loud,vibrating type of arcade machine,in mind

Pinball?

Good point about operating conditions. Are you thinking primarily vibration and the potential for the cable to fail where the solder ends?

 

[UKMeterman]

There is also the issue where if a wire is tinned then it will make any screw terminal fail over time as the solder cold flows under the screw pressure.

 

[SparkyChick]

There is also the issue where if a wire is tinned then it will make any screw terminal fail over time as the solder cold flows under the screw pressure.

I wasn't suggesting tinning the ends going into terminals, although I have to admit I did do that quite a bit in the past (not on mains cables though), just flowing some solder into the crimps.

 

[UKMeterman]

If the crimp has been done right then it will be by deffiition gas tight and there will be no room for any solder!

 

[PEG]

Pinball?

Good point about operating conditions. Are you thinking primarily vibration and the potential for the cable to fail where the solder ends?

That is one of the concerns,which,of course,as a professional,you would assess on any given job,with the materials to hand.

The problem is,that the OP,with their admitted limited experience,would not be able to do this,and may be inspired to use a less than suitable method

We all use techniques and tricks,that may bypass MI from time to time,myself more than most! It is hopefully understood,that should push come to shove - we could provide a reasoned and qualified explanation,of doing so.

A "third-person",or the OP in this instance,would just quote advice on a forum...

All reputable manufacturers of terminals and fittings,list approved,compatible associated products,together with the methods of use. I have dealt with dozens,Klauke,Fast-on,and many others,and i cannot ever recall a fitting method which stated "...after crimping,then solder..." which does not mean it is impossible.

The two methods are usually,independent means,of achieving an end,and the application of heat,could alter the integrity of any crimp,together with several other issues,including insulation damage,and migration of solder/flux,etc.

All sounds a bit pedantic - for a new year's day! and i am happy to tell you,of occasions where i deliberately ignore these rules,to achieve a better conclusion.
I would,however,be hesitant,of passing on some of my "foibles",as advice,to an OP.

 

[SparkyChick]

I think technically correct is a better way of putting it than pedantic, but however you want to put it, very informative. Highlighted a few things I wouldn't have considered.

Thanks

 

[Jackson Greaves]

So, er, will the monitor need an inline fuse?

 

[SparkyChick]

Ideally, if you're removing the plug (which contains the fuse) then yes, provide it with a fuse. It's just taking precautions. As for the IEC socket... you should only fuse it at 10A IF the socket itself can cope with 10A. Not all IEC sockets are created equal If it's got a built in surge/noise filter, it's more likely to have a lower rating as the components that make up the filter will have maximum current ratings which will be the primary limiting factor.

This is why I suggested you over spec the socket inlet. May cost a little more, but if it can handle 13A, then it's going to be good and more than happy to be fused down.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

So IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

"This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure."

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

So IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

"This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure."

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

The IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

The IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

The IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool thank you, I'll put an inline fuse in for both. As an IEC socket I was looking at this:

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/iec-filters/5393638/

The IEC socket fused at 10 amp and then both monitor and PSU with 5 amp inline fuses? Does that sound ok considering:

This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Wow, sorry about the duplicates

 

[GeorgeCooke]

With regards to the fusing, it depends entirely on what is being connected and the ratings of the components involved. So if your monitor requires 1.5A and the PSU for the board requires 5A, then a 6A rated fuse/socket inlet is a little undersized and you'd be advised to get one rated at 13A and use say a 7A fuse in the inlet fuse holder.

But the power supply requires 1.3 amps (it says so on the back of it). So power supply plus monitor is only 2.8 amps.

They should both be internally protected or fused so no further external fusing should be required apart from to protect the cables. The 6 amp fuse in the inlet is all that is required.

 

[ruston]

What version of Firefox? I'm on 56 (resisting the nag screens telling me to upgrade to the latest version as I've got some add-ons I use for web development that I'm not sure are compatible with the latest version).

I am not sure what version I am on , but I was getting messages that informed me that something was slowing my pc down , also to consider upgrades.
Since I posted I have successfully reloaded an Opera update and it is ok now so I will have to wait and see if it continues to be.

I see @Jackson Greaves is having similar problems.